Ethical, complex, rooted – it’s how Chef Justin Champagne-Lagarde, the head and heart behind Ottawa’s celebrated Perch restaurant, defines his philosophy, one renowned for embracing local and Canadian ingredients, and in doing so, redefining luxury for the discerning palate.
I had the opportunity to meet Chef Champagne-Lagarde and to hear about his decision to write Perch, filling its pages with the exact recipes you can enjoy at his restaurant by the same name here in Ottawa (a rarity to be sure!).
*This conversation has been edited for clarity and length*
Q: Has your view of sustainable and local sourcing evolved over your life and career?
A: Not overly, I always found myself working in restaurants that prided themselves on sustainable and local foods. From the breakfast joint I worked at in Winnipeg (Fresh Cafe) to my first fine dining position at C Restaurant (under Chef Robert Clark). That being said, since becoming the owner of a restaurant, when I think about sustainable ingredients, I give more thought to the amount of hours it takes cooks to prep the item, and factor that in.
Q: How do you know when a recipe you’re developing is ready for print?
A: It’s been tested in the kitchen at Perch, then it goes on the 9-course tasting menu. All recipes in the book were first on our menu, no recipe was written just for the book.
Q: What’s one ingredient you cannot live without?
A: Maybe more of a flavour, but acid. Vinegar, verjus, Canadian citrus when in season (once a year), or tart berries (sea buckthorn) always play a role in how we season, and in our cocktail/non-alcoholic beverages.
Q: The fusion of Japanese culinary techniques with Canadian ingredients is intriguing. In your view, what is it that makes them pair so well together and what inspired you to pursue this pairing?
A: I just cook with flavours I like. I love umami notes in food. A lot of people say my food has a Japanese influence to it, which I never try for, but it makes sense with the way that Japanese cuisine uses flavours. I’ve never been to Japan, but a lot of people assume I have.
Q: What story is your restaurant and cookbook telling particularly in a moment of surging national pride? What role do they play in the conversation about Canada’s place in the world, politically, culturally, or otherwise?
A: I think we’re trying to highlight that Canada has awesome people growing incredible produce, farming ethical animals, fishing beautiful seafood and foraging stunning wild foods. Canada has so much to offer in luxury ingredients, but for some reason a lot of people think that “luxury ingredients” have to come from overseas. If you just shift your mindset of what the word “luxury” means, we have even more than most countries because we have so many different climate zones, soil types, elevations, oceans, rivers, and lakes!
Q: Was there a story or recipe you hesitated on but ultimately opted to include in your cookbook? What made you change your mind?
A: Falling off a scooter (like one of those Bird scooters you can rent on the street during summer) because I was bringing a few pounds of wings home for a late night snack after doing renovations in the restaurant one night. I landed on the stem of the scooter and fractured two ribs and lacerated my liver (according to a doctor after a CT scan). I couldn’t move for a couple weeks and my partner Amanda had to tackle a lot of the renovations on her own for a week or so. I ultimately decided to include it because it is a pretty funny story.
Q: In general, with so many recipes available online today, why should home cooks and cooking enthusiasts still purchase physical cookbooks?
A: To truly understand the soul and passion behind the chef/author of the book. You can’t feel that the same way on a computer screen.
Q: What motivated you to publish a cookbook and at that specific point in your career?
A: Nothing in particular. It was something I always wanted to do. Perch was doing well and getting accolades and Chef Thottungal suggested I should write one. It seemed like a good time while the restaurant was busy, we were winning awards, and the team was strong (still is – I’m very lucky with everyone that has worked at Perch).
Q: Who is your greatest culinary inspiration?
A: I’m not sure I have one; any chef that shows their soul on a plate and creates dishes with intent, ethics and passion is an inspiration!
Q: What strategies do you recommend for managing creative blocks?
A: I get them all the time, and they are so hard to get past. Definitely focusing on being kind to yourself instead of hard on yourself (easier said than done) is a huge factor; and possibly just getting into nature by yourself and letting the wilderness recharge you. Creative blocks are so hard.
Q: What is one piece of advice you’d like to offer to aspiring recipe developers?
A: Take your time, test a recipe several times, tweak small things here and there but never too much all at once, and most importantly, trust your gut!
Q: Is there a new project you’re working on that you’d like to tease?
A: I’m always on the look out for fun collabs or pop up. I’d love to get a Canadian Culinary focused magazine going, but that’s still in the concept stage. I’d also like to start focusing a bit on private chef events. One of my favourite parts of working in a restaurant is chatting with the guests and having a great conversation. I feel that doing dinners for small groups outside of the restaurant would be a great way to really enjoy the hospitality side of this career.
Visit Perch restaurant at 300 Preston St., Ottawa, and pick up a copy of Perch by visiting the Perch restaurant website, You can stay in touch with Chef Champagne-Lagarde by following him on Instagram at @perchottawa and @champagne.chef.
